Backpacking the Teton Crest Trail: A Journey Worth Taking
- JG
- Jan 9
- 10 min read
The Teton Crest Trail is an exhilarating experience for any outdoor enthusiast. We were lucky enough to secure advance reservation permits to be able to backpack this trail in late July 2023. Stretching nearly 45 miles from the Death Canyon Trailhead to Leigh Lake, this stunning route offers breathtaking views and unforgettable memories. In the month of July, the trail comes alive with wildflowers, clear skies, and moderate temperatures, making it an ideal time for backpacking. In this post, we'll share our journey, guide you through obtaining a permit, highlight ideal campsite zones, and discuss the most challenging aspects of the hike.
Getting Your Permit
First things first...Before you embark on your Teton Crest Trail adventure, obtaining a backcountry permit is essential. The area is part of the Grand Teton National Park, and permits are required for all overnight camping trips. Here’s how to navigate the process:
Reserve Online: The easiest way to secure your permit is through Recreation.gov website. Advance reservation permits go on sale each year in early January, when 1/3 of the permits become available to reserve months ahead of time. Just know that these permits are booked up in minutes, so be sure to do your homework and know exactly what mountain camping zones and dates you want.
Walk-up Permits: If you miss the online window, the remaining 2/3 of permits are available as walk-up permits at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose, WY. Arrive early, as these are limited and serve on a first-come-first-served basis. When we arrived the morning of your trip to pick up our permit, we got there just before 8 am and there was about a dozen people waiting ahead of us. However, once the rangers opened the door to the visitor center, they were able to quickly help each group and we were able to pick up our permit and be out the door within about 20 minutes.
Cost Details: As of 2025, backpacking permits have increased in cost since our trip. Currently, there is a $20 booking free, and then it is $7 per person per day for the permit. This means that if Ryan and I did this trip today, it would cost us $90.
Know the Regulations: Make sure to familiarize yourself with the park’s regulations regarding campfire restrictions, food storage, and wildlife encounters. Grand Teton does require the use of an approved IGBC bear container. We own both a BearVault BV500 and two Ursaks, which are both approved on this list. For this trip, we elected to each bring the lighter Ursak which is my preferred bear resistant container when allowed! There is a learning curve with knowing how to tie and secure the Ursak bag properly, but once mastered, it's a great alternative to the bulky bear cannister.
Ideal Campsite Zones
While all zones along the Teton Crest Trail are beautiful and worth camping in, choosing ideal campsite areas can significantly enhance your experience on the Teton Crest Trail. Here are some of the most ideal camping zones worth considering (and yes, we have camped in most of them!):
- Death Canyon Shelf: Known for its stunning views and meadows, this campsite offers one of the most picturesque spots along the trail. In fact, it is my absolute favorite site along this hike! It's popular for its scenic beauty, making it one of the first to be booked when permits are available.
- Marion Lake: Situated below Housetop Mountain, Marion Lake is an excellent spot for camping with opportunities to see wildlife like pikas and marmots. There are only 3 campsite locations at Marion Lake, and they are situated about 100 yards away from the lake to allow for the lakeside areas to regrow with vegetation due to overuse over the years.
- North Fork Cascade Canyon: These campsites along the trail as you head north to Solitude Lake offer spectacular views of the Grand Teton, particularly from the higher sections of the camping zone. It's noted for its beauty and is a great place to catch a sunset. We had a long second day and chose to camp in the South Fork Cascade Canyon area, close to the northern end of this zone. We happened to find a hidden gem of a campsite, right along the river with views of several cascading waterfalls and total seclusion! So, while it doesn't get as many props as the North Fork, I personally think this area has lots to offer with great views of waterfalls and the surrounding mountains, so it's definitely worth considering for your permit!
- Alaska Basin: This campsite is outside of Grand Teton National Park, so no permit is required, making it a flexible option for those who couldn't secure permits for other sites. It's surrounded by eight lakes and numerous streams, providing ample water sources and beautiful landscapes. This is a stunningly beautiful part of the hike, and if we had more time, I might have opted for a night in the Basin just to soak up its beauty. It was in this part of the hike that we say several wolf prints in the mud along the trail. That was a first for us!
- Holly Lake: Located near the end of the trail, Holly Lake offers a tranquil spot with only 3 established campsites set off to the right of the lake once you cross a large boulder field. It's definitely a quiet and scenic place to spend your last night on the trail, and also one of the first to be booked up when permits are available. We were lucky enough to get to Holly Lake first to have a pick of the campsites and saw only one other group there that night with us.
So, here are the specific details of the campsite zones we selected for the permit for this hike:
Starting TH: Death Canyon
Day 1: Death Canyon TH to Lower Granite Canyon (9.8 miles)
This day started off really hot and dry on the trail around Phelps Lake. Once we got around to the backside of Phelps Lake, we lost most of the day hikers and it became really quiet. So much so that we encountered our first black bear along the trail! Once we got onto the Granite Canyon Trail it was a slow grind uphill for the rest of the afternoon until we made camp just a little way south of the Group site.
Day 2: Lower Granite Canyon to Death Canyon Shelf (7.6 miles)
The next day we woke to a thunderstorm which delayed our breaking camp until about 10:00 AM. We continued to have a light drizzle for the morning, but the skies cleared up and we had the most beautiful hike up to Marion Lake, over Fox Creek Pass, and finally to our destination for the evening, the Death Canyon Shelf. We had the area around us all to ourselves! The view from the shelf is unbelievable. Again, like absolute favorite camping area along this entire trail.
Day 3: Death Canyon Shelf to South Fork Cascade Canyon (10.7 miles)
The third day of our hike we were feeling stronger and had built up a little more endurance, so we were able to hike nearly 11 miles this day. We wanted to aim for the northern end of the South Fork Cascade Canyon zone to put us as close as we could to the climb up the next day to Paintbrush Divide. However, we weren't the only campers that afternoon searching for campsites in this area, so it was a bit of a scramble trying to find a spot at the end of the day. Fortunately for us some nearby campers gave us a tip about a great established, secluded campsite along the river that had yet to be occupied. We would have never found it without their help!
Day 4: South Fork Cascade Canyon to Holly Lake (7.8 miles)
This day was a day of climbing! As we quickly exited the South Fork Cascade Canyon zone, started making our way into the North Fork of the Cascade Canyon. It was a slow and steady climb up to Solitude Lake. This is a stunning lake at the base of the divide, and also very popular with day hikers coming up Cascade Canyon from the Jenny Lake area. Despite the name there is noticeable of lack of solitude around this lake in the summer. With that said, it was a great spot for us to eat lunch and fuel up for the long climb up and over Paintbrush Divide. We did encounter a few lingering snow fields on the way down to Holly Lake, but nothing that couldn't be crossed with our hiking shoes and trekking poles.
Day 5: Holly Lake to String Lake/Leigh Lake TH (6.5 miles)
After a beautiful and peaceful evening around Holly Lake, we wrapped up our final day with a relatively short hike down through Paintbrush Canyon and around to the String Lake Trailhead. As we neared the end of our hike, we encountered again lots of day hikers and our second black bear right next to the trail! He paid us and other hikers absolutely no attention as he continued to eat berries. As we made our way back to the rental car, we dropped our gear inside and headed over to the Jenny Lake Lodge restaurant for some burgers and cocktails!
Total Map Mileage: 42. 4 miles
The Challenge of Elevation Gain
While the Teton Crest Trail is breathtaking, it's not without its challenges. One of the most significant is the elevation gain. The trail features numerous ascents and descents, providing both stunning views and a good workout. Here’s what you can do to tackle it:
Prepare Your Body: Start training weeks in advance. Ideally, you would incorporate hikes that include elevation gain and heavy loads. However, because I live in flat Texas, I typically train using a 16 lb weighted vest worn while using stair climbers, ellipticals and long walks in my neighborhood. The part that you cannot prepare for at sea level is the effects of altitude change. This is where most people tend to struggle, in my opinion, and in some cases, it can make you really sick. I have known for years that suffer from altitude sickness, and I have some miserable stories from ski trips to prove it. So, for me, I manage my taking a prescription altitude sickness medication whenever I am going to be exerting myself over 9,000 ft or more. That tends to be when I start showing symptoms. While it can cause side effects in some, the medication has proven to be a lifesaver for me!
Pace Yourself: Start slow, especially on uphill sections. Break for rest and enjoy the views. It can take some strong mental strategies to get up the hill, whether it's maintaining a slow and steady pace or stopping at frequent intervals. Remember, this is not a race, even though you will undoubtably see some ultra-runner running past you on this loop. Do whatever works for you to endure the grind!
Hydrate Often: Water sources are abundant along the trail. Keep sipping water and use a hydration bladder or water bottles for easy access. Hikers have many filtration choices when it comes to refilling bladders and bottles, and we personally still use our favorite system, the 4L Platypus Gravity Filter System for all our filtered water needs.
Eat Snacks: Energy-packed snacks can go a long way. Choose nutrient-dense options like nuts, granola bars, and dried fruits to fuel your hike. I often find that when I am really hitting a wall on a steep climb up and over a mountain pass, its usually because I need some fuel. In addition to the options listed above, sometimes a handful of sugary candy like Swedish fish or my personal favorite, a Honey Stinger Waffle, it just what I need to push me along! Whatever you choose, make sure it something you really enjoy because at times you will not feel like eating and everything tastes kind of, well, blah.
Dealing with Weather Variability
Overall, we had great weather except for our first morning out on the trail. With that said, the weather in the Teton Range can change rapidly. Preparing for these changes is crucial--I have personally made poor choices in rain gear prep in the past and suffered from mild hypothermia as a result of being in a thunderstorm with lightening, rain and hail for more than 4 hours in the Wind River Range, and it was not fun. So, learn from my mistakes!
Pack for Different Conditions: The weather in July can vary, often ranging from warm sunny days to sudden rain showers. Bring a waterproof jacket, rain pants, good insulation layers, and sun protection.
Know the Signs: Familiarize yourself with common weather patterns in the area. Watch for sudden drops in temperature or shifts in wind direction, which could signal incoming storms. Keep an eye on changing weather conditions as you approach a mountain pass. Its common in the summer to have a storm creep up mid-afternoon, so your best strategies should involve getting up and over earlier than later.
Plan for Flexibility: If the weather forecast predicts storms, consider adjusting your itinerary. Safety is paramount; don’t hesitate to turn back or modify your plans. Again, this was something we learned the hard way in a previous backpacking trip. Build extra time in your trip plans so that you can have maximum flexibility if you find you need to modify your plans due to weather or other conditions.
Final Thoughts on the Teton Crest Trail
There are some areas along the trail where it does get thick with day hikers, and you will sometimes find yourself constantly ahead or behind another group. In particular, the closer you get to the Cascade Canyon trail junction, Solitude Lake (which in July offers very little solitude) and Paintbrush Divide, the more hikers you will encounter. So, pack your patience and keep on hiking!
Backpacking the Teton Crest Trail is truly a remarkable adventure, and so much so that I am backpacking this route again this July with my women friends as I was successful again in snagging an advance reservation permit earlier this week! So, stay tuned later this year for a new update from my trek again on the TCT.
In the meantime, if you want to see more details about our trip, check out my summary video on our YouTube Channel, and be sure to Like and Subscribe!
Happy hiking!
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