Backpacking Below the Rim in the Grand Canyon

If you have ever applied for a backcountry permit to camp in the Grand Canyon, then you know what the process is to get this permit. It is one of the most old-school processes I have worked with to get a permit, although this process will change as it moves to Recreation.gov in 2024. After two attempts of submitting my paper application months in advance via fax (or rather, via a fax app on my phone), I got my first choice for my R2R trip starting at the North Rim on May 15, traditionally the opening day of the Grand Canyon North Rim access. In any other given year, this would have worked out well, as I had shuttle reservations booked so we could leave a car at the South Rim and take a ~4 hour shuttle to the North Rim to begin the hike. But with record snowfall in the Grand Canyon and most of the West in 2023, the North Rim remained closed until mid-June.

I wasn't going to be deterred by this and chose to modify our trip from the traditional R2R to what I like to call our Boomerang hike. Instead of starting at the North Rim (since that wasn't an option), we elected to start the hike at the South Kaibab trailhead and continue to our permitted campsites at Cottonwood Campground the first night, Bright Angel Campground the second night, and then back up and out via the Bright Angel trailhead as originally planned. This did add some mileage to our hike, some 33 miles or so over the 3 days, but it was absolutely worth it!

Grand Canyon Day 1: South Kaibab Trailhead to Cottonwood Campground ( 15.3 miles)

We had a heck of a time traveling the day before (that's a whole other story to tell sometime) and finally arrived at the Maswik Lodge on the South Rim about 2:30 am the night before. We opted to get up early and take a hiker shuttle that picks up from the nearby Backcounty Office with direct service to South Kaibab trailhead at 7 am, so needless to say, our first day was long and exhausting! We were at the South Kaibab trailhead and on our way about 7:30 am and began our descent.

The hike down was not bad at all, although we were mostly in full sun the entire way down.

We made it the Colorado River, crossed over and cruised into the Phantom Ranch about 4 1/2 hours later--just in time for lunch and their famous lemonade!

We opted to take a siesta in the shade under a large tree nearly the canteen in the 95F heat before we headed out again while also enjoying $1 refills of lemonade to beat the heat. We roused our hot sleepy bodies about 3 pm and started making our way north again through the Box. It was nearly an 8 miles hike to Cottonwood Campground from the Phantom Ranch. The hike was a relatively flat hike meandering alongside the Bright Angel creek, passing Ribbon Falls in the distance. Due to the dangerously high-water levels of Bright Angel creek, we could not cross the creek to take the detour to see Ribbon Falls up close and had to settle for a little peek of the falls in the distance from the trail.

Ribbon Falls in the distance

Cottonwood campground had been closed for several weeks due to the dangerously fast and deep-water level of the Wall creek crossing, which was located about 3/4 mile before the campground. I had been monitoring information from the NPS and social media, and so by the time of our hike, I felt comfortable with doing this crossing.

Preparing to cross Wall Creek

The water level had dropped quite substantially, with it only reaching our mid-calf and the water was crystal clear. It took each of us about 10 seconds to cross with no issues.

First night in Cottonwood Campground

Because we didn't change our permit reservations, we were rewarded with being only 1 of 2 groups in the entire campground that night. We had a beautiful campsite in the canyon with Bright Angel Creek about 50 yards away in the background.

Grand Canyon Day 2: Cottonwood Campground to Bright Angel Campground (7.6 miles)

Day 2 brought us a quiet morning and a relatively easy hike back south to the Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground. We were back at the Phantom Ranch in about 3 1/2 hours and was able to head over the campground and get a great site (#9) right next to the Bright Angel creek.

Lemonade and beer from the Phantom Ranch Canteen

We set up camp and headed back to the Canteen with our lunches for some lemonade (me), beers (the guys), snacks and socializing. After lunch, we headed back to our tents to avoid an afternoon shower while taking a relaxing nap before heading back again to the Phantom Ranch for dinner.

Outside the Canteen service window

I had made reservations months in advance for the Beef Stew dinner, and it did not disappoint! It was served with the freshest salad I have ever eaten, cornbread and the most delicious brownies! We even got to take leftover brownies back to our campsite for our hike out the next day. It is hard to believe that everything made and/or sold at the Phantom Ranch has to come down on mules! While some items might seem kind of pricey, it's absolutely worth it when you are in the bottom of the Grand Canyon. If you have an opportunity to visit the Phantom Ranch Canteen and even to have dinner there, don't pass it up!

Phantom Ranch dinner family style

Grand Canyon Day 3: Bright Angel Campground to Bright Angel Trailhead (10 miles)

We were packed up and headed out of the Bright Angel campground by 6 am the last morning in order to beat the heat as we ascended the Bright Angel trail on our hike back out of the Grand Canyon.

Despite the 10 miles and the nearly 4600 feet of elevation, the hike out was not as difficult, nor as hot, as I had feared it might be. We took a long break at the Havasupai Gardens, refilling water bottles and reservoirs from the available piped in water.

We continued on and made it back to the top of the rim around 11:30 am--just in time for lunch and cocktails to celebrate a successful trip!

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Check out the Highlights for this trip in our YouTube video!